Thursday, 19 December 2024

German Christmas Tour: Day 11 - Bamberg (2/2)

More exploration of Bamberg's old town today! We started with a quick stand-up breakfast at a bakery close to the hotel - Backerei Seel. The coffee was german-typical (nothing special) but the baked goods, especially the croissants and the danishes, were amazing. I also tried a 'Bamberg' lebkuchen that was much less dense and much more cake-like than the Nuremberg variety,  

Standup breakfast at Backerei Seel

After breakfast, and because it was so close, we took a quick hop back to the rathaus to show Eben (he missed it yesterday) and also to snap a family photo. 

Ratbags back at the rathaus

The photo duly snapped (evidence above!) we then aimed ourselves up the hill towards the Bamberger Cathedral. It was kinda interesting with it's twin spires, and it contained many quite elaborately carved tombs, Bamberg being as it was the German capitol of the Holy Roman Empire in the 12th century. 





Bamberger Cathedral

Next door to the cathedral sits the Neu Rezidenz, the former prince-bishop’s residence in Bamberg. We didn't go inside, but it looks impressive, as does the view over the old town from the rose garden at the centre of the building's two wings.




The Neu Rezidenz & rose garden

The third buiding making up this triple threat on domplatz is the Old Court of Bamberg, a group of half timbered buildings that once served as the bishop's residence (before the neu rezidenz was completed).



The old court

Some really nice stuff here, and aparently the set for one of the hollywood 'Three Musketeers' movies. After viewing the old court buildings we sauntered back down the hill to the river region known as Little Venice. Basically there are a line of really beautiful timber houses lining the river. We confirmed that they were still standing, and snapped a couple of pics.


Bamberg's own little venice

By now we were pretty hungry, and started to look for a place to eat. We'd noticed this restaurant- Kachelofen (meaning 'tiled stove') just up from the Schlenkerla and decided to give it a try. Man are we glad that we did, as this place was awesome. We were sat at a table for 6, and almost immediately a couple of german ladies also sat at the table. We started with a beer - #18 for this trip - Fässla Hefeweizen. It wasn't bad at all! We all then ordered a plate of wurst in one form or another (best this trip so far!), accompanied by brot and some of the best senf we've had so far.


Bier #18 - Fässla Hefeweizen


A wonderful lunch at Kachelofen (tiled stove)

The german ladies, locals from Bamberg, turned out to be very nice and I was able to exchange a few words with them in German. All in all an amazing meal that really perked up our spirits.

After lunch we started to walk back towards the christmas market. Just before the rathaus we came upon a cristmas decoration shop 'Inge-Glas' that sold hand-blown, hand-painted christmas tree ornaments and were lured inside by their colourful display (and because it was in direct competition with Kathe Wolfhart across the road).

Christmas decorations at Inge-Glas.

We browsed in Inge-Glas for quite a while, picking up a few really nice specimins. I was particularly taken with a glass of dark Schlenkerla smoked beer, and the christmas lebkuchen. Katrina picked up a range of other beauties.

Finally dragging ourselves out of the shop we continued towards the christmas market. We browsed with Eb (this was his first time) and Clau and I shared another Schaumkuss which was sweetly delicious.


Another browse of the Maximillianplatz christmas market, another Schaumkuss.

The chrismas market done for another city, we kept walking north towards the prospect of a beery afternoon at the Spezial Brauhaus. Clau peeled off to make her way back to the hotel, and we crossed the river to Spezial. What followed was a fantastic afternoon of bier tasting and generl revelry.

We started with the Spezial Rauchbier - bier #19 of the trip. This was much, much nicer tha the rauchbier from Schlenkerla yesterday, with a much more subtle bacon flavour rather than the ashtray hit of schlenkerla. Really, really enjoyable.


Bier #19 - The Spezial Rauchbier

A bier-filled afternoon in Spezial Brauhaus

After our rauchbier was depleted we moved on to the next biers on offer - bier #20 of the trip - Spezial Unfiltered Keller Bier, and bier #21 - Spezial Doppelbock Dunkel. The keller bier tasted subtly like an IPA to our weizen-atuned palates, while the bock was a subtly smokey affair that only slightly hinted at its increased strength. Pretty smooth as well.

Bier #20 - Spezial Kellerbier & Bier #21 - Spezial Doppelbock Dunkel.

Even before the last two beers were finished we ordered a single Spezial Hefeweizen - bier #22, to try. Another great weizen, although for me there could have been a little more of the banana flavour from the hefe. A very nice beer nonetheless.


Bier #22 - Spezial Hefeweizen

Swaying slightly, and singing Rammstein tunes, we made our way back to the hotel for a little rest before dinner. Dinner was at the Klosterbrau, right next to the hotel, and one of the bucket list places I was wanting to visit. 


Right from the off, we started with the highly recommended Klorterbrau Schwartzla - bier #23 of the trip. And what a bier it was! malty and delicious. We then went on to order schnitzel for all - and a great schnitzel it was.  


Bier #23 - Klosterbrau Schwarzla



A very enjoyable dinner at Klosterbrau

Towards the end of the night I git my courage up to order a hoodie and a stoneware mug from the waiter. The staff were so nice and took us back to find an XL. Even whan an XL was not immediately apparent, the guys took the time to hunt one out for me. Awesome.

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