Trip 3: Days 7 & 8 - Fukuji Onsen to Kuruizawa to Nikko

We've had a couple of slow days since Fukuji onsen, partly due to travel requirements, and partly due to the ongoing effects of Typhoon Hagibis. Day 7 saw us travelling from Fukuji onsen back to Matsumoto and then on to Karuizawa by Shinkansen. Unfortunately, the portion of the Nakasendo from Karuizawa to Yokokawa - reportedly the most spectacular of the whole trip - was closed due to typhoon damage, so we were really only travelling there to lay our heads for the night.

We left Motoyu Magokuro after another early morning soak in the outdoor onsen and an amazing breakfast, with a small present of locally made sweets from Naomi our hostess. We were very sad to leave. Before jumping on the bus we visited the local 'Morning Market' with it's eclectic collection of wares for sale, and its decor consisting of old 7" singles and celebrity posters from the last 60 years. Wierd, but I felt right at home.

The eclectic Morning Market at Fukuji Onsen

Waiting at the bus stop in Fukuji Onsen

Jumping off the bus in Matsumoto, we did manage a side-trip to Matsumoto castle for a look-see, so the day wasn't a total write-off. Those distinctive black walls really are amazing.

Matsumoto Castle: Impressively black

We also managed a couple of Taiyaki from the frog themed Nawate Dori before returning to the train station.

Mmm, Taiyaki.

Jumping on the Shinkansen, we were soon in Karuizawa which is a resort town for well-to-do Tokyo toffs. It's basically a european-themed village, trying to be anything but Japanese. I didn't like it, and I didn't trust it! We walked the 2km to our lodgings - the 400 year old Tsuruya Ryokan right on the old Nakasendo road.

The venerable Tsuruya Ryokan

It was nice enough - the food was good, but no outdoor onsen. A big come-down from the night before! We got a good night's sleep and were up early on Day 8 to get the fuck out of dodge. I was pretty gutted that we were unable to complete the Nakasendo walk I can tell you. The completest in me is already mentally planning when I can come back to finish the set.

Anyway, c'est-la-vie. We walked back to the train station to board a JR bus to Yokokawa (where we should have been walking to ffs) just so we could see what we'd missed out on. By the way, it looked fucking spectacular. Most of the day was then spent in and out of various JR stations catching trains and changing tickets until we finally rolled into Nikko station about 3pm.

We decided to walk the 2kms to our ryokan from the station. We happened on quite a circuitous route that took us past the Shinkyo bridge and the Nikko Toshogu Shrine.

Shinkyo bridge - like crack cocaine for tourists.

In another 500m we reached our digs - Tsurukame Daikichi Ryokan, right on the banks of the Otani river. 15 minutes after that, and we were luxuriating in the small but functional outdoor onsen on the 6th floor.

Tomorrow we are due to travel out to Nikko Yamoto Onsen for a couple of days and do some more serious walking. However, the word on the street is that the main walks we planned to do there are also closed due to typhoon damage, so i may just be having a little tantrum this time tomorrow. Stay tuned.