Trip 3 - Day 1: Osaka

Well, we are finally here! After a day of typhoons and flight delays, we finally landed in Kansai (9pm - only 3 hours late as it happens) and made our way into the city. With the airport express whisking us to Namba station in a very comfortable 45 minutes, we decided to walk the remaining 1.5 km to the hotel - dragging the bags, but just happy to be on our feet and back in Japan. By 11:30 we'd checked in, inhaled some salmon onigiri from the local konbini, and were tucked up in bed exhausted.

Rising at a respectable 8am, we grabbed some breakfast at the hotel buffet and then hit the streets. Our first destination was the riverside restaurant strip of Dotonbori to snap some photos before the weekend deluge of visitors. As it happened, our meandering path took us through the trendy America-mura portion of the city, akin to Tokyo's Harajuku, so we got to see that for free despite the fact that it was far too early in the morning for all the pretty young things to be out and about.

 

Dotonbori was just starting to wake up when we arrived. We snapped a couple of obligatory photos in front of the Glico running man sign, and then walked the food street. We wandered up and down surrounded by food stalls with their huge signage and drank it all in. Thing is, we weren't hungry enough to actually eat anything yet. Hmm, poor planning that, but we walked and dodged the slow build of other pedestrians, and we walked some more.

Dotonbori food street and it's huge signs

Soon we made our way down a narrow little laneway that shoots off Dotonbori towards Hozenji Temple - a small temple tucked away in the nest of narrow streets behind the food Mecca, and containing a moss covered effigy of someone whose features are totally occluded. By moss. We dutifully clapped our hands, made our offering, and splashed the moss-dude with water. I'm assured that a successful trip is all but guaranteed.

Hozenji Temple behind Dotonbori

Gotta make that moss.

Still not hungry, but wishing to start our food adventure (for appearances sake more than anything) we decided to walk back to the Namba area, and sample the Namba Ramen Ichiza - a collection of 9 ramen shops from all over Japan collected on the 9th floor of the edION building near Namba station.

In no time at all we were sitting in the DanDan noodle shop, ready to sample Osaka's famous Tantan men ramen.

Tantan Men Ramen in Namba Ramen Ichiza

It was a fish-based ramen broth, which I had never had before, and it was pretty damn good. Not to mention the gyoza that we inhaled along with it were exquisite (when are they ever not?).

With full bellies we decided to keep heading south to the old Shinsekai part of the city in search of another Osaka delicacy Kushikatsu - crumbed, fried things on a stick. Again we took a meandering path, always tending southwards, but turning down each street that looked the most interesting.

Once we were out of Namba, we found ourselves in another famous part of the city - Denden Town - which is where all the electronics, pop-art and anime (ie geek stuff) can be found. On the way through, we saw lines of middle-aged men waiting to go into idol shows, and then even got to witness a show ourselves. A single idol, obviously a rising star, was giving a performance in the car park out back of a small market.

Her cadre of loyal fans were out to support her - belting out lyrics and clapping in time, even dancing where needed.  One dude in particular delighted us with his amazing outfit and slick moves. This guy really knew the material.

In no time we'd reached the Shinsekai area and could see the famous Tsutenkaku Tower looming over us. Using it as a beacon, we made towards it, reaching the old shopping streets that surround it. In a small covered market I found a t-shirt stall run by a cool dude named Masahiro who did all the designs and screen printing himself. I dutifully purchased one of this originals.

Matsuhiro of Absolutely Marvelous Designs

Coming out of the covered market we ran smack-bang into the base of the tower, and proceeded to investigate the old restaurant quarter laid around its feet.

The old Shinsekai district of Osaka

We wandered, and wandered, and wandered some more - snapping a shit-tonne of photos before finally selecting a Kushikatsu place for some fried morsels and a beer. The food was ok - a little bit oily (duh) but the beer was very welcome!

Kushikatsu and beer makes a nice afternoon snack!

Having sated what appetite we had regained, we turned for home, deciding again to walk back to the hotel. Our meandering path re-commenced, and we managed to see a few more of the DenDen Town, Dotondori and America-mura back streets before reaching the hotel. It was amazing how many more people packed the streets now that the sun was over the yard-arm, and we were kinda glad we got out so early.

After a rest and a shower back in the room, and with a little tap-tap on this epic treatise, we ventured out again to get some dinner. Given how much we love Okinomiyaki, one thing on my food list was Osaka-style Okinomiyaki. I had in mind a recommended little place near Hozenji Temple called Hozenji-yokocho Yakizen from whence we could procure same. With this in mind, we walked back to Dontonbori, now all lit up in neon splendour.

The Dotondori river by night

Hozenji-yokocho Yakizen

Okinomiyaki was duly consumed, but it did not, it must be said, live up to the hype established by its infinitely more desirable, and umami-filled cousin, Hiroshima-style Okinomiyaki.

Osaka-style Okinomiyaki

We trudged back to the hotel full but unsatisfied. May tomorrow bring something new to tempt our tastebuds. Talking of tomorrow, the weather report for our first day hiking is pretty woeful so we'll see how 12kms in the rain sounds. Can't wait!