Wow what an amazing day we had today. At the moment I’m sitting in the warm afterglow of a long hot soak under the stars. The awesome rotenburo (outdoor onsen) here in Ashizuri Pacific Hotel Hanatsubaki sits right at the ocean side. Although I couldn't sneak my camera into the bath, here's what it looks like in the daylight:
Rotenburo at Ashizuri Pacific. Heaven.
Pretty sweet, and we are relaxed as fuck. As you may have guessed, Lucas and I are in Ashizuri at the southermost tip of Skikoku after a glorious day’s riding from Kamon. We awoke early after our horror day yesterday to a clear blue sky. Amazing! I’ve never in my life seen such a wonderful sight. We slowly got all out wet shit sorted - rain outers were dried out on the driveway in the sun and were stowed, jackets and pants were laid out in the sun and...never really dried until about lunch time. Thankfully I have a spare pair of gloves so while I rode today my soaking ones were lashed to the outside of my bag. As I type they are
almost dry!
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Drying those pesky wets. |
Anyway, with the sun shining and not a cloud in the sky we were soon packed and on our bikes heading for the Pacific south coast of Shikoku. Our planned route would take in some quiet fishing villages along the coast and then head inland to follow the rivers along routes 381 and 441, and then finally head south to Ashizuri. A leisurely 5 hour ride.
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Our planned route from Konan to Ashizuri |
As usual, the japanese countryside did not fail to delight, with surprises around every corner. I am still gobsmacked by how the route differs from what you imagined looking at the map. The japanese landscape and countryside is just so dense with soaring mountains and tight valleys that you just can't imagine in 2 dimensions.
The ride along the coast was amazing (I seem to be using that word a lot) with some really cool bridges, and wonderful coastal scenery dotted with islands and rules by huge sea eagles. Some great riding was had along the twisties of the Yokonami Koshiro Line.
Heading inland we stopped at Family Mart for a little breakfast Onigiri and Royal Milk Tea before getting fuel. After having to pump petrol ourselves yesterday (oh the horror) we vowed to only go full service today and my petrol server did not disappoint. Much.
Enough said.
Fueled up, we headed into the river valleys of routes 381 and 441 for some beautiful riding. I'll add some more photos here a little later when I have some upload speed worth a damn. But here's a little taste of what the ride down those valleys was like.
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Riding down route 381, or was it 441? |
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Maybe this was 441? They all blur together into one awe inspiring ride
Carpe Diem. |
The only thing we would have wanted to change about today were the dinner arrangements. After being told by hotel staff of the local offerings in the neighbourhood, we wandered and found none open. Increasingly frustrated we jumped on our bikes and rode the 20 minutes to Tosashimizu (in shorts and t-shirt) to try and find one of the hotel recommended places. All shut. For fuck's sake! In the end we settled yet again for the convenience store, eating in the parking lot beside our bikes. That's 3 pieces of fried convenience store chicken for me today and that's enough for a lifetime. Lucas has vowed never again! No more convenience stores on this trip. We'll see if he can make it work.
Anyway the bath afterwards made up for it all, and now it's midnight and our futons are calling us. Sorry it's a bit of a lame post tonight but I'm beat. Hopefully I'll have alot more time tomorrow night for writing without an onsen to distract me.
Enjoying to read your updates. Try google maps on phone then search restaurants in area, it shows what is open and closed. There will always be plenty but I have eaten Lawson/7-11 dinners many times then next day riding out seen many things I did not know the night before.
ReplyDeleteYeah that's a good suggestion Waren thanks. The problem we have is that by the time we've arrived and stashed our shit it's past closing for many of the small town restaurants. We need to get our priorities straight!
DeleteHey Gav I'm enjoying your Japan motoblog. A day of rain on the steel horse is certainly character building ;) How good does a hot bath feel afterwards! Reminds me of my UK winter motorcycling days.... Ride safe cheers
ReplyDeleteThanks Andrew! It's good to know that someone is reading (and enjoying!) this thing. The onsen at the end of the day is the reason I love to ride here. It really is the perfect end to a day in the saddle, especially when your arse is a little saddle sore!
Deletegood to hear the rain let up! Scenery looks awesome! Any chance of some video?
ReplyDeleteVideo is hard. I havent got any editing facilities other than quicktime and these posts are taking most of my evening free time. Can hopefully share some when I get back.
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