Trip 2 - Day 10 - Yufuin to Tengu

Kyushu has been great, but it's time to get back to Shikoku! Our route today takes us from our onsen hotel in Yufuin, back to the Saganoseki Ferry Port, on to our old friend Misaki port in Shikoku and then our final destination Tengu-Lodge in the Tengukogan ski area.

The route for today from Kyushu back to Shikoku

We started the day's ride with a run down the remainder of the Yamanami Highway back north towards Beppu. It looked like rain when we were leaving Yufuin, so I was dressed in my Michelin Man outfit, but as we descended out of the mountains the clouds burned away and the day became clear and hot. I sweated my way back to the Oita freeway where, with a little raw speed, I was able to cool down a little. In no time at all we'd re-traced our steps back to the ferry port and I was able to strip my layers.

We managed to arrive in time for the 10am ferry, so after lining up for 15 minutes or so we rolled on to the ship, had the diligent crew strap our bikes down, and retired to enjoy the ride.

The ferry from Saganosekiko Port in Kyushu

Strapping the bikes down 

With the clear skies and hot sun, we enjoyed the ferry crossing immensely - much more than our original hazy journey over. While Richard and i took photos from the deck, Lucas took a nap.

Smiles out on deck enjoying the sun

Snoring in the cabin

After about an hours sailing time we rolled off the ferry back into Misaki, Shikoku and immediately burned up route 197 along the length of the peninsula. In fact we rode Route 197 for nearly the entire day today and it showed us many different faces.

Along the length of the peninsula back to Yawatahama, Route 197 gave us stunning coastline and a fast-paced run through sweeping corners. The run to Yawatahama was completed in no time at all, and it was a blast.

Peninsula coastline along Route 197

Breezing through Yawatahama, Route 197 then carried us through the urban areas around the outskirts of Ozu before carrying us all the way to Yusuhara. Just as the urban shit ended we decided to stop for lunch at a franchise restaurant whose menu was a complete mystery (but turned out to be ramen). Some acceptable ramen and gyoza were consumed before we hit the road again.

Ramen & Gyoza for lunch at a Ramen chain store

With the urban shit in the rearview, we now burned down Route 197 along rivers and deep mountain valleys. The Shikoku we had come to know and love. The farmers in this part of Shikoku have been busy in our absense, and most paddies now have rice seedlings planted in them.

Riding the more rural valleys of Route 197 

The concensus already, after just a few hours back in Shikoku, is that the riding and general vibe of Shikoku is much more to our tastes than Kyushu. Maybe it's the wilder nature of the landscape, with more rugged mountains and smaller hamlets nestled in deep valleys, but what ever it is, I love it.

After reaching Yusuhara we turned towards the hill climb up to our hotel, Tengu-Lodge, perched on the very top of Mount Godanjo. The climb was slowed by many tight switchbacks, but when we finally reached the end of the line, our view out over row upon row of mountain ranges was nothing short of spectacular.

The view from the balcony of the hotel

And now a panorama. Hopefully you can view it.

After settling in we sat down for an amazing dinner of many and various dishes, each of which was delicious. Washed down with cold Asahi, it was a great end to the day.

But it wasn't the end! Of course the true end to the day of riding in Japan is the onsen to achieve a total zen-like relaxation and recover from the exertions of the day. While the hotel didn't have a rotenburo, the bath was very adequate and, with the windows open and the wind howling through them, was almost outside ;).

Ready for the bath

Our inside bath complete with greek statue for no reason at all

Ahhh. Now I am completely relaxed and trying my best to cool down with a large Pokari Sweat and some Sumo on the TV.