Friday 23 October 2015

Day 1: Tokyo - Shinjuku & Shibuya

After months of planning, Lucas Richard and myself finally stepped off the Haneda red-eye at 5:00am this morning and on to Japanese soil. With almost two hours consumed with customs, fighting with Telstra roaming, installing Japanese phone SIMs and other first-world problems, we finally boarded the monorail into the city; switching to the Yamanote line at Hamamatsucho and then on to Shinjuku.

Mono-rail - putting cities like Shelbyville on the map.
The JR Yamanote line, pre-commuter fun.
Luckily it was still too early for the commuters to pack the trains and stations to overflowing - just as well since our bags containing jackets, helmets and boots were pretty large and unwieldy. If I get a chance I need to thank the gods for wheelie bags!

A half an hour stroll from Shinjuku JR station towards Shinjuku San-Chome and we finally located our hotel - Shinjuku City Hotel N.U.T.S and dropped our bags. Unfortunately, Japanese hotels are (in my experience at least) very strict about correct check-in times and in this case N.U.T.S was no exception. We were back out on the street by 8:00am, with instructions to return at 4:00pm.

Just around the corner from the hotel is a beautiful little shrine that we spent a few minutes admiring. The large Buddha in the corner of the small plot was quite impressive, as was the old wooden shrine itself. Truly amazing was the statue covered almost completely in salt - usually used for purifying the spirits.


It's a small shrine with a big buddha near our hotel.
The statue almost covered with salt.
True to form, the Qantas food of the night before had been particularly atrocious. With rumbling stomachs we walked back towards Shinjuku station in search of food. Both Richard and Lucas harboured found memories of a katsu place they remembered from previous lives as ex-pats in Tokyo. Unfortunately, after some time searching, the place remained decidedly un-re-discovered. Finally we decided to head to Shibuya and another place they could recall. Long story short, we finally managed to get some katsu at a nice little place called "Wako", and mighty fine katsu it was too!

Recommended Katsu place "Wako" near Shibuya station.
Tonkatsu. Unbelievably awesome.
Pork katsu (tonkatsu), rice, cabbage and miso made a very nice brunch before, replete and energised, we ventured out into Shibuya for a little sightseeing and shopping. The crowds were slowly starting to emerge into the streets as we wandered around. I was starting to bitterly rue my decision to bring only my motorcycle boots on this trip and nothing else. What the hell was I thinking?

We stopped at statue of famous Shibuya dog Hachikō (a sad story), elbowing our way into a photo op before continuing across the landmark Shibuya crossing and into the side-streets.
The statue  of Hachikō near Shibuya station. 

The famous Shibuya crossing, with citizens now out in force.
Shibuya back streets
Finally, our wandering brought us to the Tokyo Hands Shibuya Store where we whiled away a couple of hours browsing the wares. It was during this time my feet finally gave out and I ducked into ABC Mart Shibuya to buy a pair of new Converse. Phew! My feet are already thanking me.

Pokari Sweat and Converse Shoes to the rescue.
With shoes purchased and a bottle of Pokari Sweat in hand, we made our way back on the Yamanote line to Shinjuku for coffee. Avoiding the many Star-fucks franchises that seem to have polluted this part of the world, we ended up in a Tully's Coffee for a well earned rest. Sucking on Grande mochas (which exceeded this coffee snob's expectations with flying colours), we rested our weary legs, loaded up on sugar, and bided our time until checkin.

Finally we gained access to our room, and after a long awaited soak in the deep bath (separately!!) we ventured out into Shinjuku to sample the nightlife. First we headed to a tiny place close to the hotel for some pork ramen and gyoza. The food was great, the smokers a few tables down not so great.

Ramen bar for dinner
Pork Ramen and Gyoza.
Totally stuffed, we then wandered the streets around Shinjuku Kabuki-cho, checking out the seedy neon drenched streets and being hassled by huge black dudes touting girls, boys and whatever else we desired inbetween.

Shinjuku Kabuki-cho looks nice, but is seedy as hell.
They got a bit annoying after a while to tell you the truth - I need to perfect my 'don't even fucking speak to me' face. Anyway, it's something for me to practice when I'm back home ;). Finally, we left the seedier side of Shinjuku and decided to plant our arses at Kirin City for a couple of quiet drinks.

Kirin City - where everybody knows your name.
The beer was really great, even though the middle aged woman on the table next to us drank me under the table. It was really nice to just sit and watch some Japanese kicking back and enjoying themselves.



After a few beers it was finally time to call it a night. Thanks Tokyo for a great first day.

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