Wednesday 11 January 2023

South Korea: Day 12 - Jeonju to Seoul

We woke to a grey overcast day - our first ever for this entire trip! Not to be discouraged, we struggled to our feet and got our seized back muscles moving again. We packed up all our shit in record time and stashed our bags in a little storeroom in the courtyard of the guest house. We'd checked out by 10:30am and we'd still not seen our host - communicating with him via text messaging only. Weird. 

With a day to fill until our train at 3:20pm, we ventured out to find what was now brunch. With coffee at the top of the agenda we decided on "Gyodong Tea Garden" - a beautiful multi-room tea house on the main street. We forwent the tea and went straight for their quite passable, dare I say excellent, coffee. 



Gyodong Tea Garden - more great coffee. 

With half of brunch taken care of, we headed to Daurang Dumplings for something more substantial. There was no way I was going to miss this place, as it seems to be on everyone's "must-do" list for Jeonju eats. We selected a bunch of dumplings from their extensive offerings, stuffed them in the microwave, and sat down to a simple, yet amazingly tasty feast. To be frank, these were some of the best dumplings I'd ever had. Large and stuffed with meat, they were very, very satisfying. I even went back for seconds.




Daurang Dumplings know what a dumpling's about!

With our bellies bursting, we decided to walk it off with a trek up the hill to look at Jaman Mural Village. Like Gamcheon Village in Busan, the residents have prettied up their rather poor neighbourhood with colourful artworks. It's now a really interesting place to explore and we spent quite some time wandering around the place.


Some of the namesake Murals from Jaman Mural Village.

At the top of the village we found a really interesting, quaint cafe filled with vintage toys and pop-art memorabilia. The owner was a cool dude who welcomed us warmly and set about making us yet another coffee (iced this time!). Again we'd found a really cool place to hang out and we took our time before dragging ourselves away and thinking of our impending train journey.




Cool vintage pop-art cafe in Jaman Mural Village.

But soon it was time to leave. In our laziness, we decided to call a taxi rather than fuck around with the bus timetable, and it turned out to be a solid choice. The taxi driver was a really nice dude, and didn't even get pissy when our bags wouldn't all fit in the boot. We just piled in and he was very happy for us to nurse our cases (he even suggested it).

There's not much to say about the train journey itself. We sat, the train zoomed across the countryside, and in no time we were back in Seoul and on the subway back to Insadong and Hotel Sunbee. With eyes only for our soft, soft beds we decided to grab dinner at the same chicken and beer place we'd been to on our first night in Seoul (and Eben and I really wanted to sample their black draft beer!). Suffice to say, the beer was great (even with kids adding soju) and so was the chicken.



More chicken and beer because - why not?

Hunger sated, it was back to our rooms and bed. This time around we've got two rooms, a double and a twin, so everyone was much more comfortable. No more sleeping on the floor for the kids, and mattresses all round. Luxury!

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